Trigger Wheel Dentistry

 

Short version: It worked.

Long version: I varied the plan slightly, based partly on not having the right size drill bit. I didn’t have a small bit to use for plan A, so I used a 1/8″ bit and, since I happen to have a gob of them, a 1/8″ x 3/8″ steel rivet.

I centerpunched the appropriate spot and drilled a 1/8″ hole about 3/16″ deep in the edge of the wheel. I drilled another 1/8″ hole to intersect the first one. I inserted the rivet to the right depth, which was scant less than bottomed out. I used a center punch to stake the rivet in place. I cranked up the torch and filled the space in with brazing rod through the intersecting hole. Easier to do than to describe, I think.

After that, a little grinding, filing and wire brushing and it’s got another decent tooth.

I used what I’m sure will turn out to be temporary spacers and bolted the wheel to the crank. It took a couple of times to get it adjusted close enough to start, once it was going, Buzz had what was actually a pretty ok idle. All four pipes hot!

The signal is a solid 1.8V, so I gained quite a bit of signal power. I suspect the timing is still a little off because I can’t get him to rev over about 3500 RPM and by then the advance needle in MegaTune is swinging wildly. Sounds kinda like he hits a rev limiter that recovers kinda slow. The RPM is nowhere near the rev limiter settings.

Most importantly, I now seem to have reliable ignition, so next time I get to work on it, I think I will button up the ECU and EDIS module into their permanently attached locations.

As for the trigger wheel, what’s left is to solidify the connection to the crank. The wheel sits just about perfectly on two nylon spacers that I got at the hardware store. At this point, the plan is to get a dowel pin long enough to secure both spacers to the crank, use the timing light to get the wheel within the timing adjuster range of dead on, then use another smaller dowel or roll pin to secure the trigger wheel to the spacers. The roll ping will reside under the fender washer under the bolt that holds it all to the crank.

Let the tuning begin!

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