The filters are a tight fit for the space where they go, especially on cylinder 4. I’m glad I got the oval filters, which are substantially narrower than the round ones, so the filters clear one another horizontally, but cylinders 1 & 4 filters are resting against the frame. I’m hoping that the overall length of the silicone intakes I ordered will be shorter, which will help this fit a lot. I could trim the neoprene ones, but I figure, “Why bother?” They will be replaced soon enough. It’s possible that I may also need to shorten the metal intake adapters that I built. I hope not, if for no other reason that it will be a pain to do.
I may also need to reroute the fuel line from the tank. The fuel filter is currently nestled between the air filters for cylinders 1 & 2. Not only does it interfere with the mounting position, and thus the appearance, of filter 1, it also makes the filter essentially hidden from the rider view from the saddle.
What might be more useful to the rider is some visual verification that fuel is flowing. I can find lots of flow indicators, but they are all huge industrial things. The search continues…
Speaking of fuel flow, I have determined that the petcock, even if it were opening properly from the vacuum, doesn’t flow enough fuel. The filter stays dry as long as the pump is running. Though fuel pressure on the high side of the pump doesn’t seem to suffer, there should be more flow for pump cooling purposes.
I pulled the stock ignition reluctor thingy. Something I didn’t expect, so I am thus glad to have discovered now, is that it’s not a flat plate mounted directly to the end of a crankshaft. Rather, the plate has a integrated spacer between it and the end of the shaft. To duplicate the dimensions of this spacer using a flat plate for my trigger wheel, I will need to make a fairly simple spacer, 1″ in diameter and 11/16″ (0.685) thick. It could be aluminum or steel, even a heat resistant plastic. My trigger wheel should work at 1/8″, although to ensure the strongest signal, I should probably make it more like .20″ thick.
The spacer will need a slot cut or a hole drilled to mate with an alignment pin that is in the face of the crankshaft end. To secure the alignment of the plate with the pinned spacer, I will drill two diametrically opposed holes in the plate. The plate will be held by the bolt while the system is initially adjusted. Once the proper alignment to TDC is determined, then I will drill through the two holes into the spacer and apply roll pins or some other sort of peg for positive alignment.
The one thing I can’t seem to find supplied new is the connector that will be needed for the coil pack. That alone is enough to make me want to get the coil pack from a wrecking yard so that I can salvage the connector from the wiring harness. It may also be a good idea to get the inertia switch from a Ford that disables the fuel pump in a collision. Chances are the same vehicle will have the coil, connector, spark plug wires (need the coil end connectors) and the safety switch.
Speaking of safety switches, I forgot to mention yesterday that I won a minimum bid auction for a Honda Goldwing bank angle switch, intended to disable the fuel pump if the bike lays over. Presumably, I could use only the angle switch, assuming that a collision would also put the bike on it’s side. I’ll think about it.