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Intake Work

I finally got started on the throttle body adapter!

Using the gasket that came with the intake as a pattern, I cut a piece of 3/16″ plate to shape and cut the holes in it.

I struggled for a couple of hours trying to fit existing tubing and a couple different O-rings to the base of the throttle body. I tried using exhaust reducers. They came the closest to fitting and I guess it was worth trying, but the only combination that seems likely to work will be to gently stretch a 2″ fitting so that the smaller diameter end is very slightly larger than it is now. It will not be easy to do that and keep it round and O-ring-sealing smooth.

Luckily, I may not need to. After noticing that my hatless short sleeve work uniform was inadequately warm for the falling temperatures in the carport, I came inside and found that a best offer I’d submitted on a pair of actual EX650 intake boots was accepted.

There is a slim chance that I may have to remake the plate for these intakes, but it will be worth it to not have to deal with the precision required to seal and attach the throttle bodies to the intake manifold!

Since I’m waiting for parts now, I thought this might be a good time to apply some thinking out loud time to X-Tau acceleration enrichment.

In short, this is an enrichment that compensates for how much of the injected fuel sticks to the walls of the manifold. This is another one of those things that I’m so very glad that someone else had to figure out. As astonishingly brilliant as I am, I’m not sure it would have occurred to me. Anyway, the problem is that a percentage of the fuel going into the manifold sticks to the walls. This fuel eventually evaporates and makes it to the cylinder, only to be replaced by more injected fuel. In a steady state load, the sticking and evaporating fuel reach an equilibrium, but it can become a significant factor with changing loads, making the mixture unexpectedly lean during acceleration and unexpectedly rich during deceleration.

It would seem to me that intake tract length could be a large factor in this phenomenon, and in my configuration will in fact have a relatively long intake tract.

On Buzz, the intake tract was about 5 inches between the injector and the intake valve and there just isn’t much manifold wall to stick to. That doesn’t mean that it’s completely not a factor, only that its a small factor.

On the VW, in my configuration at least, there is a good couple of feet of intake tract between the injector and the intake valves. Additionally, the intake tends to be cooler near the injector and warmer near the valve. This temperature differential is why most VW manifolds have tubes to circulate hot exhaust gases through the manifold, so that the temperatures along the intake tract will be more consistent. A cold manifold will condense vaporized fuel, exacerbating the manifold wall wetting problem.

Honestly, getting the engine running will not require much attention to X-tau compensation, but tuning it for best performance will.

The Usual Delays and the IMS

Sometimes, it sucks to work.

I have spent most of what would otherwise have been a great week to work on the dragon trike in New Mexico working. I enjoy New Mexico and I like our people there, but I wanted to stay home.

Even after spending the week out of town, I wasn’t going to forsake the Dallas appearance of the International Motorcycle Show to work on the trike. Overall, the show was pretty good. Enjoyed seeing the Ducati stunt team. Nothing sounds quite like a Duck. Found that for all the hype, the Honda Fury is unridable for the same reason most other choppers are. Long bike, long seat, long pegs, short bars. Who want’s to ride when folded into a cramped “C”?

The bigger problem with the show was with what was missing. This is my third year attending. The first year it was held at the Fort Worth Convention Center. Besides being my home town and essentially walking distance from work, the Ft Worth show seemed much…. I don’t know, “fuller”. More vendors, more manufacturers, more.. stuff. Last year in Dallas, there were fewer bike vendors than the previous year in Fort Worth. Absent in Dallas last year were names such as Moto Guzzi and Vespa and Kymco that were prominent in Fort Worth the year before. Similarly, some notables were missing this year, like Victory, KTM, Triumph, and of course, Buell.

We still managed to have fun and shop a lot.

One thing that occurred to me suddenly whilst I was in the Kawasaki pod was that my plan to use the throttle bodies that were apparently from a Ninja 650 might be simplified by the acquisition of some stock parts.

One of the part fabs I will need to do is some kind of adapter between the TB and the manifold. The Ninja (or the Versys; they use the same engine) has to connect the TB to the engine, so maybe their connector can be adapted to my manifold easier than building something from scratch. According to Kawasaki Parts House, they are only about $20 apiece. Unless i can get RIGHT on fabricating something, I will probably order a couple of them.

Some parts arrive

Today, I received my manifold and my throttle cable parts from Flanders.

A lunch, I mocked up the TB and manifold and measured the combined height. I think I have 10 inches clearance under the fiberglass, as measured from the top of stock manifold cross tube.

Allowing for a little more than 0.25″ for the adapter plate and gasket, I only have about 2.25″ for an air filter. I think I can use a K&N RC-2380, which is a single filter with two flanges 75mm apart or RU-1822, which is a set of two filters identical to Buzz’s four. Obviously, I can rob two of these filters from Buzz for the time being. In fact, I’ve had one as a carb cover on this engine already.

To adapt the TB to the manifold, I will make a plate (or two joined plates) from 1/4″ stock, using the gasket as a guide. Atop that plate will be two cylindrical rings large enough for the base of the TB and an O-ring to slip into. It will have a bracket of some sort to secure the TB to.

The throttle cable is pretty normal throttle cable stuff. I had originally ordered parts for this trike, but used them on the Yellow Trike. These that arrived today are pretty much just replacements for those. Of course, now I need to connect it to the TB eccentric instead of the carburetor.

Finally, while this is not particularly EFI related, the guy at Mid Cities Cycle called, announcing the arrival of the switch pod. This will allow me to wire all switches except for the key switch to the left handlebar, just like the Yellow Trike, except that I won’t fry the start switch on this one. The solenoid on a VW starter pulls way more current than the little switch could handle. The simple addition of a relay addresses the issue nicely.

The body is on; so is the rush!

This blog is about the MegaSquirt conversion of the engine in my VW powered trike. There is another blog about other parts of the reconditioning of this trike and another at my trike blog. The trike referred to here is currently known only as either The Purple Trike or The Dragon Trike.

With the trike in place at the BTW clubhouse, I took the body off and set about trying to start the thing up. It hasn’t run since I took all the intake, ignition and charging components off to install motor bling.

Before and after:

Even before it came apart, it wasn’t running right and with the benefit of the experience troubleshooting the Yellow Trike, I now realize that I probably have some form of intake leak. On The Yellow Trike, it was around the throttle shaft of the carburetor. This one appears to have about as much play as that one did. If it turns out to be that, I will borrow the new carburetor off the Yellow Trike to get this one running enough to know that there are no other intake issues, then I will crank up the EFI project into overtime because I see no reason to spend $160 on a new carburetor to use temporarily.

Of course, in the attempt to test fire the engine, it appears that fuel is not getting *to* the carburetor and that even if it were, the battery is too low to crank it, so while the charger tops off the battery, I am here typing away. Which give me some time to organize my efforts.

I have elected to rob the MSII and Innovate O2 sensor off Buzz to get the trike running. That will save me about $500 in parts and shipping and waiting. I will need to get a DB37 connector for the wiring harness and find some kind of weatherproof box to put all the guts in, primarily the MSII controller, relays and fuse block. It should be big enough to put the trike’s other fuses and relays in as well.

A suitable intake manifold has been ordered and has in fact been shipped and is scheduled to be delivered this Thursday (11/05/09). Once I have it in hand, I can make the adapter plate to attach the motorcycle throttle bodies to it.

After that, comes lots of little bits that need to be done. In no particular order (and subject to change):

Attach trigger wheel to crank pulley and install (change belt)
Mount trigger wheel sensor
Mount EDIS module
Mount EDIS coil and wires
Wire EDIS system
Pull distributor and plug hole
Put fuel pump in tank
Put fuel gauge sender in tank (not really EFI, but should pull tank only once)
Plumb fuel to TB
Cylinder head temp sender for CLT?
IAT on/in TB
Lots of tuning.

Buzz for sale?

I am contemplating selling Buzz.

I am thinking about selling him for two reasons. First, we have a rather full stable of iron critters and could honestly use the garage space. As he’s not on the road, I’ve not had insurance on him since it last expired, but once back on the road, I would need to insure him again. Second, I have a VW trike that I want to run EFI and I need parts. The two most expensive parts that I need are the MegaSquirt controller and the exhaust oxygen sensor and there is one of each on Buzz, who is not really roadworthy.

The battery is dead at the moment from sitting since April. Once I service or replace the battery, the bike should be in at least a minimally running condition, meaning that it *will* start and run and go down the street. It does not, unfortunately, mean that the bike is in any desirable state of tune. It runs quite rich at idle and has a rather unfriendly throttle response. The throttle bodies I installed are far too large for this bike. In short, the injectors cannot deliver a small enough amount of fuel at idle while the throttle body itself cannot deliver a small enough amount of air hardly anywhere above idle. It runs, but not particularly well. It revs like a banshee, though. :)

I have a couple of ideas to address this problem. To my knowledge, there are no salvage four cylinder individual throttle bodies small enough to work with this engine, though there are several for twins and singles. These all would require a manifold to adapt to a four cylinder and I have in fact secured a potential TB and a spare cylinder head that I intended to use in the fabrication of just such a manifold and have discussed this manifold in previous posts. However, I have plenty of other projects, not the least of which is the afore mentioned VW trike, and that throttle body is nearly a bolt-on for the VW.

There are actually several options available to me, in no particular order….

1. Sell Buzz as is, hoping to recover enough for my EFI parts list. Considering he’s only barely a running bike, I would imagine that only someone specifically interested in taking over a MegaSquirt project would be willing to pay anything more than a parts-bike price for him.

2. Part him out. Potentially, this could be the most lucrative, but I really hate to do that to a classic bike with a good title and many miles left to run.

3. Reinstall the stock induction system (all was kept, just in case) and sell him as a working stock bike. This would likely appeal to the largest buying audience, but would also involve the fairly exhaustive list of carburetor tuneup tasks that were actually needed before I took them off, at least if I want any decent money for him.

4. Rob the parts I need off him, put the rest in a corner, put him back together as time permits and maybe sell him then.

I welcome any thoughts, suggestions and comments (or offers)….

70-something Stires Trike

I found and purchased my VW trike even while I was working on Buzz so perhaps needless to say, I am planning to ‘squirt it, too.

As is wise in such endeavors, I have been gathering some parts that will be needed for it.

I have the in-tank fuel pump from a Ninja 650 motorcycle. I think it will be easy to put it in the existing tank which is basically a welded up cube.

I am slightly concerned that the sump may hang down low enough to drag, but there is room to move the tank up on its mounts, too.

I have a set of thottle bodies that were supposedly from a KFX450, but appear instead to be from a Ninja 650 or maybe a Versys. The throats of this set of throttle bodies are set at 75mm between centers, which corresponds to the spacing on several Weber and Delorto carburetors that are popular on VW engines, so it should be pretty easy to adapt them to readily available manifolds.

The EDIS ignition I got for Buzz could not rev as high as Buzz’s engine, but will work perfectly for the relatively low reving aircooled VW engine. There is ample precedent for adapting trigger wheels from various Ford engines to the crank pulley on the VW.

I will probably borrow the WB O2 system off Buzz, probably temporarily, but maybe permanently.

After those items, the biggest thing left is the controller itself. I’d like to use a Microsquirt, but I will probably just get another kit from DIYAutotune.

More to follow….

Hey, remember me?

Buzz is dusty, having been left essentially untouched since my last update. We have a trike vacation coming up and I’ve been semi-diligently working on the VW trike. Of course, I’m always planning and plotting to squirt the VW, too, but there’s not time before the upcoming trip. I imagine it will be mid-June before I can get back to tuning on Buzz.

After using the borrowed MIG to fix a couple of things and to make a sissybar for my wife’s new Nightster, I had to return the welder, so I shopped around and bought one of my own. Granted, it’s a Chinese cheapy from Harbor Freight, but thus far, it has done everything I’ve needed it to do.

As mentioned back in late January, I purchased a cylinder head from the same engine as Buzz, the intent being to use it as a jig for the manufacture of a new manifold. To that end, I’ve been practicing a bit of tube-on-tube welding. I imagine the manifold for the VW will need a bit of that as well.

I have a pretty good idea in my head how I will make Buzz’s manifold, using EMT conduit sizes. Note to self: remove all zinc galvanzing before you weld on that stuff.

FabMonster in Training

 

I’ve been away for a work project for a couple of weeks, so no tangible work on Buzz during that time.

As is often the case, however, I’m always working on something, usually at least related.

I have borrowed a decent MIG welder and I am learning to use it. I have not yet done anything practical, but I have been practicing skills I will need to make my next manifold, whatever engine it goes on. It’s pretty easy to weld a nice bead so long as you don’t have to stop and restart. It gets ugly then. Welding a piece of pipe to a piece of flat, for example; I can only keep the wire feeding in at the proper angle for about 75 degrees around the pipe until I have to stop and reposition the piece. Then when I restart the weld, she’s not so pretty. I’m sure its just a matter of practice. I’m running out of practice pipe, though!

Assuming I can muster adequate skill to assemble a thin steel manifold, will I really need to? I have not yet spent the necessary time to see if connecting the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator will bring the fuel mixture into line. If so, I will instead need to make an adapter to let me put the twin throttle body on a Weber/Delorto manifold for the VW instead. That will essentially be a plate with adapter rings that will either fit around the outside of the TB and seal with an o-ring, or more likely, connect with a short length of hose and two clamps, kind of like on Buzz. The second also gives better physical support, so that’s probably how I’ll end up doing it.

Yesterday and today have been pretty riding days. At lunch yesterday, I got Buzz started with the intent of taking him to and from work, but he was idling funny. I checked and fuel pressure was a tad over 80 PSI. I’ve not seen that kind of pressure except when I had the regulator return line pinched off accidentally, which you may recall burst the pressure relief valve on the old pump. Hopefully, this one has not suffered the same fate. I verified that the return valve is open, but otherwise didn’t have much time for troubleshooting. Perhaps I can take another look tonight.

A little light reading…

 

I knew that the purpose of a vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator was to help vary fuel pressure according to manifold vacuum. I just didn’t realize that it’s actually pretty important to do that.

Quoted directly from the MegaManual:

The vacuum referenced fuel pressure regulator is essential. It provides constant pressure differential between fuel at injector nozzle and manifold air pressure [port EFI] or atmospheric pressure [TBI]. This makes the injected fuel quantity solely a function of the injector open time.

If you were to ‘cap off’ the manifold vacuum port on the fuel pressure regulator, you are reducing the dynamic range of the injectors. This means you will need lower pulse widths at [idle] (giving less control over idle mixtures) and lower flow under boost (restricting the maximum horsepower).

So, in general, for port injectors, have the fuel pressure regulator connected to the manifold vacuum is a good thing. There is very little reason not to do it (though some have argued against it for individual runner port EFI set-ups).

Ok, ok, hint taken, especially paragraph two. It will be very easy to hook up, assuming there is no pressing reason not to allow the vacuum from just one cylinder to operate the regulator. hmmmm Logistically, it would work really well to T off the MAP signal; perhaps the regulator would serve as an accidental vacuum accumulator and smooth out MAP repsonse… In any case, I hope to have some wrench time on Buzz this weekend. I also very much hope to have some *riding* time on Buzz this weekend.

Speaking of fuel, I forgot and left the fuel valves on again. I’ve been out in the driveway at least briefly most nights this week except last night and saw nothing out of place. Low and behold, tonight I go out and find a big puddle of gasoline under Buzz. Of course, it’s dark and I had no time to troubleshoot, so I just turned the valves off. Next time I go out there, there will be no leak and no evidence of a leak, thus nothing to fix.

In other light reading, I am trying to find specs on this twin TB. As sold, it was described as being for a Kawasaki KFX450R ATV, but everything I can find on the KFX450 indicates that it is a single. After looking around in the parts diagrams on Kawasaki’s website, I’m pretty sure these are from either a Ninja 650R or a Versys, both powered by a fuel injected 650cc parallel twin. I haven’t been able to match the part number on the box (16163-0078) but the illustration of 16163-0084 is identical. Furthermore, looking up parts for the KFX450R (as the box was marked in Sharpie and as the eBay auction described it) reveals a single throttle body, not a twin.

I suppose whatever the throttle body was intended to fit, it changes my conditions very little. I still need to find out what the injector ratings are. Googling for the part numbers on the injectors (ETA287 on one side, 2870581 on the other) doesn’t find them. I also will still need to build a manifold for it.

On that subject, the intakes on the heads are so nearly exactly 1″ ID that it will have to do. That end of the TB is 2.2″ and Buzz’s current TB assembly fits in 5.25 inches between the cylinder head and the base of the filters, , not including the filters. Since two TBs will fit between the frame pieces that currently limit the space available to four TBs, I may be able to stretch that distance a bit. Also, these TBs may be a a quarter inch or so shorter than the ones currently installed, but it’s hard to accurately measure with them installed.

But basically, I will be building two kinda short blocky Y (really more like a J with a crossbar; I need to draw it out and scan it), with a 2.2″ pipe on one end and two 1″ pipes on the other. The engine ends will have flanges and the TB ends will hopefully have an O-ring friendly pipe. The two J/Y things will be joined in the center for both rigidity and to facilitate a bracket to attach the TBs to. Because of TB and cylinder spacing, there will be an almost straight shot from the TB into #2 and a short horizontal runner to #1; likewise with #3 and #4. It’s pretty clear in my head, so hopefully my fabrication skills will keep up.

More ideally, there would be two equal length runners from each TB to it’s cylinders. I could probably accomplish this by feeding #1 and #3 from one TB and #2 and #4 from the other. Again, I’ll have to draw it out and see, and accurate drawings will be much easier the the arrival of the spare cylinder head.

Finally, the simplest manifold may be to simply take a 2″ or so pipe about 16 inches long, tap two 2.2″ TB connections on one side and 4 1″ engine intake connections on the other side and see what happens. No bends, a cap in each end of the big pipe, 4 flanges and 6 pretty much standard fishmouth pipe welds.

By the way, the sub-throttles can definitely be left in place on this unit. One kinda weird thing is that the fast idle cam arrangement on Buzz’s existing set of TBs is kind of done on these as well, but the cam is connected to the sub-throttles. When the are forced all the way open, the cam engages the main throttle, opening it about 1-2%. It would almost be funny if the IAC stepper function of MegaSquirt could be adapted to run this motor. [note: see this note in the VW Trike blog for the answer to that question – Sluggy] Perhaps someday someone will write some support for them into MegaSquirt. I don’t think I’ll ever had the time!